South African Adventures
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Wiehan and I traveled to South Africa recently to visit his family. This was really a time all about taking a break from work and being present with family for quality time after two years apart. While we weren't planning to put together any kind of blog post about the experience, friends have been really curious about the trip, so we thought we'd share about what we did and what it's like to travel to South Africa. Check out a quick video teaser for this blog post, up on our Mountain Road Ride YouTube channel!
We've been wanting to travel to SA for the Christmas holiday ever since moving to the U.S. in 2016, but the tickets have always been astronomical - somewhere around $2k or more per person. We booked our airplane tickets way back in March 2019, when we found a deal for flights in December for less than $900 per person. It would have been more ideal to travel over Christmas and New Years in terms of work leave. However, we had to fly on specific dates in order to get the better prices, which meant returning home a few days prior to Christmas.
Settling in for the long 15-hour flight from Atlanta to Johannesburg.
The travel to and from South Africa is an incredibly challenging endurance effort. We flew out of the Washington D.C. area for a 2-hour flight to Atlanta, Georgia. After a 4-hour layover at an airport with very limited healthy food options, we took on the arduous 15-hour flight to Johannesburg. There are usually two meals (dinner and breakfast) on the flight, with a sandwich provided sometime in between. But I don't eat much, if any of the food that's provided by the airline. Instead, I pack two meals and snacks, such as apples, oranges, peanut butter rice cakes, avocado oil potato chips and Navitas power snacks. Wiehan eats the plane meals, but I also pack two sandwiches for him and he eats some of my snacks and a Clif bar as well. I really appreciate the fact that I'm allowed to bring my own food on the plane. Having access to food that meets my health standards makes the flight a little more bearable. For more on the topic of staying healthy while traveling, check out this blog post.
We've become Survivor fans in recent years and have been watching all the old seasons of the long-running reality show. Wiehan downloaded a few episodes on his iPad and with the use of a dual headphone jack we could watch together. (Side note: one of the flight attendants on our flight home from Atlanta was surprised to see someone watching Survivor and introduced himself as the son of a player in one of the early seasons - so cool!) Watching Survivor really helped make the first few hours of the flight to Joburg go by quickly. We both really struggle to sleep while traveling, but I managed to doze off a lot on the way there. Time sure seems to stand still when all we want to do is curl up with our cozy avocado mattress and pillows back home for a good night's rest. Eventually, with just one hour left of the flight, we began to feel the excitement. We could hardly wait for solid ground and big hugs from Wiehan's parents!
Although it's summer in South Africa in December, we were warned that the region had received unusual amounts of rainfall for a straight week and that temperatures were chilly, around 60° F / 15° C. In addition to the gloomy weather, we arrived just in time for the onset of the ever-dreaded South African load shedding, which means that the electricity shuts down for several hours during the day. The electricity in South Africa is run by a government-run monopoly called Eskom, which has not kept up with the times and often cannot produce enough electricity for the demand from the population. The company continues to rely on coal as its prominent source of energy, but supposedly the prior week’s continuous rainfall left a lot of the coal wet. On top of that, various maintenance issues at the power stations were also placing strain on the company's ability to produce power. Not only did Eskom enforce Stage 6 load shedding, the worst in history, but we were unfortunate in that a 4-hour period of load shedding in the region where we were staying turned into 13 hours without electricity when a local power station experienced technical difficulties. As much as we were looking forward to family, sunshine and relaxation, the weather and the SA infrastructure weren’t always cooperating with those second and third objectives.
After a good night’s rest, we went to the mall the following day to take care of some admin at the bank and cell phone store. Unlike in the U.S. where malls typically just offer retail, movie theatre and dining options, the malls in South Africa contain everything you really need for a day of errands, including several grocery stores and pharmacies, banks, phone stores and even the post office! While at the mall, the lights dimmed and all the hustle and bustle came to a crashing halt as load shedding came into affect for the day. But gradually within about 5 minutes, the lights flickered back on and business carried on as usual, due to the fact that the mall and stores were equipped with generators to override the power outage. We were joined by Wiehan's parents, sister and two nephews on this particular outing and we decided to get lunch at one of the restaurants there rather than figuring out what to make back home with the use of a gas-powered stovetop.
We spent the next two days an hour north of Johannesburg, in the town of Hartbeespoort. We hung out by the swimming pool at a retreat center called Magalies Park. Dark clouds began to roll in as we first drove into the park and a thunderstorm hit within an hour of our arrival. We sat under a lapa (a common outdoor structure in South Africa, resembling a gazebo, but made with wooden supports and a thatched roof) by the dining room and had snacks and drinks while waiting out the storm. That evening, Wiehan and I went for a run, enjoying the beautiful sunset. And the next morning we went out for another run with Wiehan's sister and observed some of the high waters that had occurred from all the rain.
Wrapping up our overnight trip to Hartbeespoort, we enjoyed breakfast at the restaurant Vovo Telo, together with Wiehan's family. They offer one of the better cappuccinos in the country. On our way back to Joburg, Wiehan and I stopped at Cradlestone Mall where we ate lunch at Doppio Zero. We both ordered The Naked Bohemian, which is a bunless beef burger with veggie toppings and a side salad. The food there was really great, but if you're ever in Joburg, keep in mind that later on our trip, we ordered the same thing at a different location, but the quality and quantity of the food didn't hold up to the Cradlestone branch.
The next day, we had friends over for a braai at Wiehan's parents' house. A braai, something akin to an American barbecue, is huge in SA culture. Typically it's called a “bring and braai,” where the host provides the fire and some side dishes, and guests bring their own meat, beverages, and a side dish or two to share. It was really great to catch up with old friends in this way and see their growing children.
The weekend brought back the true South African summer sun and heat, along with what was one of the biggest highlights for Wiehan - a bike ride in an area known as the Cradle, due to a UNESCO site called the Cradle of Humankind, that claims to be the site where humankind originated. The Cradle offers long stretches of open roads, perfect for cyclists. Wiehan and two friends spent about 3 hours cruising 68 km / 42 mi in the hot sun, while also taking some time to enjoy coffee and beer at Bidon Bistro. Meanwhile, Wiehan's mom took me to a cafe called Second Cup situated in a woodsy garden. For an outdoor lover like me, this was such an incredibly relaxing spot to sit and chat. We both had red cappuccinos, which are like normal cappuccinos, but instead of coffee, the grounds are from rooibos tea. These were sprinkled with cinnamon, a delicious little addition. The food at the cafe is very fresh and healthy. And you surely don't feel like you're in a busy city when sitting at a table surrounded by trees, with chickens happily wandering by. Later that afternoon, Wiehan finally had the chance to jump in the pool at his parents' house, to cool off from the hot day on the bike. He’d been waiting for that moment all year!
Ocean view in Franskraal
The next day, we headed off to the airport bright and early, for a 9am flight to Cape Town with Wiehan's parents. The flight was just long enough for us to watch the powerful documentary titled Blood Road, about mountain biker Rebecca Rusch, who cycles the Ho Chi Minh Trail, joined by Huyen Nguyen, in search of the site where her father's plane was shot down during the Vietnam War. It's a compelling story with stunning imagery, and we'd highly recommend it, available for streaming via Amazon Prime. Be sure to have a box of tissues on hand.
Upon landing in Cape Town and collecting our bags, we bought a salad for me and a sandwich for Wiehan at the Woolworths grocery store at the airport. Then piling into the rental car, we began the 2-hour drive to Gansbaai, the small fishing town where Wiehan's mother's side of the family has been living for generations. Along the way, we stopped in the beautiful coastal town of Hermanus, where Wiehan and I ate lunch at Caffè Blu and bought some groceries for our time on the west coast. The food and coffee at the cafe were delicious! Wiehan was impressed by his cappuccino and I enjoyed my red cappuccino. He had a breakfast plate with eggs, bacon, avocado, tomatoes and toast, while I had a breakfast bowl featuring a winning combination of poached eggs and avocado atop a bed of arugula and sautéed mushrooms, seasoned with cilantro and lime. For the next three nights, we stayed within walking distance of the ocean, at a lovely little accommodation in Gansbaai's neighboring town of Franskraal. Wiehan and I went for several runs along the beach during our stay and each night we enjoyed dinner with all the extended family who live in the area. During one such meal, Wiehan's uncle braai'd the very special, locally caught galjoen fish. Each family member received their own fish and I impressed everyone by eating the eyes, which were truly the best part. We learned that the galjoen caught in Gansbaai is particularly flavorful because of the rich diet that it is able to eat in that location, including mussels.
We blocked off one entire day while in the Gansbaai region for time at the beach. In a prior trip, we'd really enjoyed Die Plaat at the Walker Bay Nature Reserve. So we decided to return to that spot. Wiehan's aunt lent us a pop up beach tent, similar to this one, as well as a beach umbrella. With my fair skin, I have to do any combination of sitting under shade, wearing long sleeves and a hat, and / or wearing sunblock. If you visit the nature reserve, be sure to bring some cash along, as the entrance fee is R50 per adult and R30 for children. Additionally, take note that there are approximately 200 stairs descending from the parking area to the beach. The ocean water is fairly clear, but very cold, as the water comes up from Antarctica. Despite the temperature, Wiehan and I splashed around in the waves and it was a ton of fun! Eventually, as enjoyable as it was to spend time at the gorgeous beach, we decided to pack up and head back to our accommodation.
The next morning, Wiehan and I spent some time at the lagoon by Boesmansrivier in Franskraal. The upside to this beach is that since the water in the lagoon comes down from the mountains into the ocean, it's a little warmer than the ocean water. However, this spot tends to be incredibly windy, in comparison to the beach at Die Plaat, which is sheltered by cavernous rock formations. Later that day, we returned to Hermanus to meet with friends who were vacationing nearby. It was so much fun catching up! Upon our return to Franskraal in the late afternoon, we discovered that the power had gone off in the region. Load shedding was not to blame. Instead, a wild fire in a neighboring town had taken out some power lines, resulting in a 24-hour power outage! The plan that evening was to meet with family at one of the restaurants in Gansbaai, and we were fortunately able to stick with that plan, as the restaurant staff managed to feed us with the use of generators. The next morning, we packed up and spent about 5 hours casually driving to another coastal town, called Groot Brakrivier. If you ever should find yourself passing through Riviersonderend, be sure to stop in for lunch and a coffee at the Ou Meul Bakkery (Old Mill Bakery). They have incredible artisan sourdough bread, along with meals containing locally sourced ingredients, including free range chicken and eggs. The quality of their food is top notch.
One of the greatest highlights of my trip happened when we met back up with Wiehan's sister's family in Groot Brakrivier and our 2 year old nephew came running out to meet us and jumped into my arms with the tightest hug I think I've ever had in my life! The biggest goal of the trip had been accomplished right there - we made an impression on his young mind, so that he'll remember us for the next time we see him, maybe only in another 2 years when he's doubled in age. It's incredibly difficult to be so far from family. We miss them every single day and long for them to be nearby. Our time together in Groot Brakrivier was so special and we enjoyed spending a day by the water. I also loved eating a meal at Deacon Bistro in the town of George, where they use vegetables grown from their own beautiful garden.
Beautiful vegetable garden at Deacon Bistro, in the town of George.
Upon our return to Johannesburg after two nights in Groot Brakrivier, we had another two nights to relax and prepare for the long trip back to the U.S. On our last day, we went together with Wiehan's parents, to Emmarentia Dam, a pristinely maintained 22-acre park in Johannesburg, featuring a botanical garden. It felt great to be immersed in nature before getting on that long 17-hour flight back to the states. Afterward, we all stopped in Parkhurst for drinks at a really neat coffee shop and professional meeting place called Bloom. Wiehan had a cappuccino, while I was excited to be able to order kombucha, which isn't readily available yet in SA. And finally, we ended off our time together with a braai, just the four of us.
The trip was clearly not without its hiccups. Load shedding certainly added a level of uncertainty. Additionally, our internet connections were limited, especially while out on the road. WiFi is not a given wherever you go and cell phone data packages are very expensive. But at the same time, while there are incredibly frustrating national infrastructure issues, there's something to be said about the opportunity to unplug. (Electricity isn’t all that healthy anyway). On our first night in South Africa, I took a relaxing epsom salt bath by candlelight. And throughout each day, I wasn't tempted to fill my in-between time by scrolling mindlessly through Facebook and Instagram as I would at home. You figure out quickly what really matters. We played a bunch of card games together, shared stories, and made memories. I am thankful for the modern day conveniences that allow us to travel to the ends of the earth, and to video chat with family and friends as if they live down the street, when in reality they're physically so unbearably far away. And I am thankful for all the simple things that don't require modern day technologies, reminding us to slow down and enjoy our lives, moment by moment. And above all, I'm thankful for the love that binds us all together. Now go hug someone you love, hold them tight and tell them why they’re so special!
Like our photos? Check out our store to purchase a select print from this adventure!
- Christin
